THE RETURN OF HELMUT LANG’S CULT 90S PERFUMES

Posted in Fragrance on March 31, 2016 by


Helmut Lang is no newcomer to fragrance.

The house launched three fragrances between 2000 and 2002, which were quickly discontinued by 2005. Overnight, the cult favourites became highly desired by scent aficionados the world over – even blogs were erected in its memory – and the scents began fetching hefty prices and with bottles deemed too precious to use.

After almost a decade – and much like the opening scene from the movie The Dressmaker – the iconic Helmut Lang fragrances are back. Before you ask, we asked for you: Would it be a tweaked version of the original—a shadow of its former olfactory self? Thankfully, no. Each has been reformulated accurately and true to original AND they’re now available in Australia!

[Insert cool, calm, SQUEALS].

The fragrances, in keeping with Helmut Lang’s minimalistic tailoring, construction and design-style, consist of minimal lists of ingredients blended by original and master perfumer, Maurice Roucel. In fact, the urban and elegant scents’ only noteworthy change is its slightly updated square glass bottle, which to be honest looks even chicer than its predecessor.

Aldehydes infused with citrus and herbal top notes of orange tree, artemisia, rosemary and lavender ensure the Eau de Cologne sparkles and shines. Cooling middle notes of jasmine, rose, heliotrope and lily of the valley add a dewy, fresh tone. Cedarwood, vanilla, patchouli, musk and amber in the base bring depth and sensuality. A modern, unisex nod to classic barbershop scents, with far more finesse.

Eau de Parfum has a powdered soft, yet sexy, growling and addictive nature. Featuring identical notes to Eau de Cologne, with amplified doses of vanilla and sex-aaay-as-hell musks… the cleanness of the EDC has all but disappeared. Roucel’s creation for Frederic Malle, Musc Ravageur, is often considered the best musk on the market, yet Roucel feels this more multifaceted interpretation is his personal best.

Dapper, fresh and unexpected is Cuiron, a gorgeous clean suede/leather and wood fragrance. Both leather and wood are gleaming, as if freshly polished with an aromatic wood polish. A stunning choice for the office or interview: bold but remaining cool and calm. Top notes of bergamot, mandarin and pink peppercorn are clean and crisp. Middle notes of cassia and carrot seed oil bring diffusion and aerate. Base notes of frankincense, labdanum, cedarwood, musky ambrette seed and suede ensure drydown is heaven. Warning: you may snuggle up to (almost) anyone wearing this!

The best part about Helmut Lang’s trio of fragrances? They’re equally feminine and masculine. The unisex scents can also be successfully layered, making them ideal to share with partners/flatmates… We think, however, it is rather tempting to collect them all to yourself!

Helmut Lang Eau de Parfum ($289), Eau de Cologne ($289) and Cuiron ($269); available from Libertine Parfumerie.