Earlier this week, for Toni Maticevski, the pressure was on.
Last year at MBFWA, he blew away fashion critics with his collection of fluorescent orange, monochromatic mesh and live flower orchids carried in models’ mouths.
This year, Maticevski delivered. And, then some.
“It’s a show so I thought, “Let’s make it a show!” says Maticevski. “I really tried to be creative with this particular collection and explore the elements of volume, silhouettes and texture and how that plays out between nature and space.”
Indeed, the king of couture’s epic presentation of grand scale proportion was just that: epic.
A celebration of unchartered territories and cloudscapes, this season, the 38-year-old designer sent contoured dresses with 3-D details, folds, twists and tucks — furnished by sheer silks, sequin-covered creations and armour-like shoulder pads — down the colossal white runway.
Meanwhile, orb-like jewellery made from resin was created for the show in collaboration with Dinosaur Designs. Skin was kept raw and foundation minimal by master of maquillage, Nigel Stanislaus, while strict ballerina buns – coiffed by Jayne Wild – were softened, but also made futuristic by being covered with coloured latex. Nails, on the other hand (excuse the pun), saw a series of shades and textures meticulously painted onto talons by OPI’s Colour Ambassador, Melisa Giraldo.
There was an extraordinary technicality to Maticevski’s fabrications, which has become something of a signature for the Australian designer of Macedonian descent, however, he’s quick to be self-effacing.
Maticevski, who believes it’s important to find the balance between creative and commerce, also admits there isn’t a specific inspiration when it comes to this collection.
“There never is,” he admits. Instead, Maticevski, who is as humble as he is handsome, takes an organic approach to design. “I just design and the fabrics ended up dictating the collection. When I put the pieces altogether, it felt… calm. The story, so to speak, is built around that. I also like that it is a bit different from last season so there’s an element of surprise.” Take the gold sequin-covered top, for example.